Monday, July 28, 2008
Louis' List: Fratelli Lyon
It's one of the newest hot spots to open in Miami with not just foodies but design aficionados descending on this one. Tonight, Louis Aguirre continues his quest to uncover the best of South Florida's best kept secrets with a super chic Italian eatery in the most unlikely of places. Check out what's on Louis' List.
WSVN -- Louis Aguirre: "All right, check it. We're in the Miami Design District, quickly becoming the Soho of South Florida. No longer is it just designer furniture show rooms. Now you have art galleries, day spas, clothing boutiques and some of the most exciting, amazing restaurants to ever open in South Florida. This is definitely one of them. This is Fratelli Lyon."
It's just so cool, with it's sleek, sophisticated, industrial design of metal and glass. I felt like I was in a trendy new restaurant in New York City, not Miami, but Fratelli Lyon couldn't be more South Florida.
This uber mod eatery has made a big splash in the Miami Design District and not just because of it's sexy design. In the kitchen is South Florida master chef and caterer Ken Lyon.
Kenny and I go way back to the early 90s when he opened up the famed Lyon Frere's Gourmet Food Store on Lincoln Road. I was a devoted disciple. 15 years later, I get to break bread with my food guru.
Ken Lyon: "This is not new food. This is Italian food produced in Italy, the way it's done. We're not trying to be creative."
What Ken has done is recreate his favorite meals from his trips to Italy using only the finest ingredients.
Ken Lyon: "This is a Venetian dish called Risi Bisi. It's a risotto with peas."
Some from the old country, some from right here in our backyard. Like this Ricotta made by an Italian cheese maker in Pompano.
Ken Lyon: "It's the best Ricotta I've ever had. We actually sourced it from Italy and found that the Italian Ricotta, with the shipping, it wasn't quite right, and this guys brings it down three days a week."
Louis Aguirre: "Oh, my God, this is so good. It's really different. I can eat this out of the tub."
Yeah, but it's even better stuffed inside a homemade ravioli, with a light butter and herb sauce. No wonder it's the most popular dish on the menu.
Ken Lyon: "Now what you're tasting, besides the ricotta, it's a little sharper, it's pecorrino."
Louis Aguirre: "No, what I am tasting is heaven exploding in my mouth, Ken. That's what I'm tasting."
But I'm getting ahead of myself. In Italy, you usually start the meal with an antipasto, and Fratelli Lyon has at least 70 items from meats, cheeses and vegetables to choose from.
You don't just eat here, you graze, you relax and enjoy life.
Ken Lyon: "The Italians say la dolce vita, la dolce vita."
Louis Aguirre: "I'm all about la dolce vita."
We must've tried a dozen antipasti, each more delicious than the next, but you know what blew my taste buds? The pizza. So good, I'd come back just for the pizza.
Ken Lyon: "This is called a Amatriciana. There's a very famous pasta called Amatriciana, caramelized onions and pancetta, tomato, so we do a pizza version of it."
Words do not describe. Look at my face, that's a happy man.
If you have room and desire an entree, trust me, go with the Venetian sole, lightly breaded, pan fried and served room temperature, dressed with onions that have been cooked in wine, water, vinegar, raisins and pine nuts.
Louis Aguirre: "You get the sweet and a little sour and the crispy nuts and the crispy of the breading as well. It's very light. Doesn't taste like a heavy, breaded fried dish."
By the way, if you like the dish, you can buy it. Fratelli Lyon is located inside the chic Italian design store Driade and everything you see, from the silverware to the plates, the glasses, the tables, the chairs, even the light fixtures, are for sale, but why come to shop when living like this is way more fun?
Louis Aguirre: "To la dolce vita."
FOR MORE INFORMATION:
4141 NE 2nd Avenue
Miami, FL 33137